![]() |
Weaving technology has
changed very slowly over the centuries. The Copts
probably used looms that evolved from those used by ancient Egyptians as
depicted in the wall paintings of tombs from
the Middle Kingdom and from the burial finds of models of weavers'
workshops. The oldest type of loom appears to have been a horizontal
tapestry low-warp loom that
was attached to the ground
with pegs to stretch the fabric. Around 1650-1500 BC a vertical standing
loom which used weights to stretch the warps was introduced.
The foot-powered draw loom which permitted fast mechanized weaving of
intricate patterns came into use during the Roman period.
There is evidence that both high-warp, or
vertical looms existed
alongside low-warp, or horizontal looms during the 4th to 10th
centuries in Egypt. Still, it is not entirely clear which type of loom
was used for most commonly woven garments and home furnishings. Some
evidence of loom stucture is inherent in the design of early tunics.
The tunic is a garment form which survived virtually unchanged for
centuries. Not peculiar to Egypt, tunics, or dalmatics, as they were also
called, were worn throughout the entire Roman Empire and were believed to
be introduced to Rome in the early third century.
Some of the earliest tunics to survive are remarkable for havinga been
woven entirely in one piece, as indicated by the illustration. In order
to weave the garment in one piece with the warp running in
the correct direction for the tapestry ornamentation, the textiles had to
be woven on a loom close to three meters wide. Such wide looms were
usually high-warp (such as the looms used to weave the classic European
tapestries) and required several weavers working together in concert.
During the late fourth or early fifth centuries, it appears that sleeves
were woven separately and sewn into place. With this procedure the
weaving could be done on a low-warp loom which is worked in a horizontal
position. The weaver sits or leans over the tapestry piece. As the work
is completed, the tapestry is rolled toward the weaver. Piecing the
tunics allowed them to be woven on a much narrower loom width, with less
warp waste, and speedier weaving since the narrower
loom width meant that a shuttle could be used to pass the
weft through the warp, a lone weaver could
operate the loom, and a reed beater could
be used. In short, the narrow loom width of the low warp loom greatly
increased the weaver's speed and efficiency. The low warp loom is worked
in a horizontal position and the weaver sits or leans over the tapestry
piece. As the work is completed, the tapestry is rolled toward the
weaver.
for weaving in two halves.
The sleeve would be woven first, then the body of the tunic with a slit
created between two warp threads for the neck opening in the center, then
the second sleeve woven. Upon completion, the
garment would be removed from the loom and essentially folded in half and
seamed along the sleeves, underarms and down the sides, leaving an
opening along the lower sides of the tunic to allow for freedom of
movement.